Royal Island, Spanish Wells, Harbor Island—March 3-11

It was a long trip from Governor’s Harbor to Royal Island. We knew there was little wind and we would have to motor-sail, but we thought it was worth it. Fortunately, we left early, about 7:30 a.m. and arrived at a tricky cut, Current Cut, just around slack tide, 1:30 p.m. This was important because we needed to get through this narrow cut before the tide changed as it’s very strong. Mike skillfully maneuvered us through the cut at just the right moment—phew! We arrived at the charming anchorage of Royal Island around 3 p.m. Royal Island has recently been bought by a private company to be developed into a resort. Cruisers are not permitted on land, although they can anchor there. It’s an especially good anchorage because boats are protected from the wind in all directions, an unusual much-sought after situation. While there, four boats from Nova Scotia joined us along with several others. The Canadian group was a lot of fun and invited us for fresh seafood chowder on Saturday night. Jan, on Te Amore, had gone out with 15-year-old Carley, who was sailing with her parents, to harvest lobsters and fish with their spear guns. On their return, several fruitful hours later, we offered our frozen catch from a few days earlier, but Jan wanted only her freshest seafood for the chowder. Instead we brought hors d’oeuvres. With ten of us in the cockpit of their 47 foot ketch, there were a lot of mouths to feed. Jan and her husband Cameron have been sailing for a number of years. They served on the Ship of Hope in Africa, having to pay for the privilege of doing so, working with Africans in need of medical care. Jan and Cam also play large African drums which they played in the anchorage but also will use in Marsh Harbour with a Rake-and-Scrape band there. Rake-and-scrape is a kind of Bahamian music made from raw materials such as a saw, a board, etc. Apparently it’s pretty good. I haven’t heard it yet, but I hope to soon.

After listening to our weather guru, Chris Parker, which we do faithfully every morning at 6:30 a.m.—one of cruel twists of fate not allowing us to sleep in now that we’re retired—we could see that we had a few days at least before the weather would permit a crossing from Eleuthera to the Abacos, so we decided to take the hour trip to Spanish Wells, pick up a mooring and explore. On Monday, we did just that having the good fortune to park next to our “old” friends, Margie and Ron Rogers on Amarige. Spanish Wells was settled by the Eleuthera Adventurers, English Puritans seeking religious freedom. They shipwrecked nearby in 1648 and founded this charming, quaint town. It is a very clean town with brightly painted cottages. It is much larger than the other towns we’ve visited so far with about 1500 residents. Most of the boys leave school at age 14 to become lobster fishermen, earning very good salaries.

We joined our friends, Margie and Ron, Tuesday for a ferry trip to nearby Harbour Island, a posh resort known for its pink sand. What an enjoyable change of pace. Harbour Island is very picturesque with many upscale shops and restaurants—truly a tourist haven. We walked the pink sand on the Atlantic Ocean past several expensive-looking beach homes and lodgings. The one-hour ferry trip gave us views of the sparkling turquoise water from its top deck. After walking the entire island for six hours, we were ready to return to our quiet mooring. Because the weather was still less than encouraging, we stayed a few more days in Spanish Wells. On Friday, we moved back to Royal Island in hopes that the weather would soon change. By Sunday, it looked like the weather window we’d been eyeballing for Tuesday, was dissipating, that maybe we should try for Monday in marginal, but not unacceptable conditions.

Sunday morning brought in an influx of sailboats with similar thoughts. One group mentioned that if we could go ashore, we could have a get-together that evening. However, since that wasn’t viable, everyone ended up on our boat for cocktails and hors d’oeuvres—about 20 people. Everyone in the cruising community seems to really enjoy meeting other cruisers—we’re no exception.

The following morning, knowing that the wind was blowing about 20 knots and the seas would be 6 feet 8 seconds apart, about 6 of us took off at 7 a.m. for the Abacos. We’re glad we did, even though it was a bit of a rough ride. The weather window was closing down with no good future opportunity in sight. Our friends the Dariens are due here Friday, so we are ready to meet them.