Marsh Harbour April 4 2007

Yes, Dana and Larry Darien arrived in Marsh Harbour as expected on March 16 with a dramatic sailing experience. After a harried trip through Denver's airport having to pack and repack bags that were too heavy and rushing to make their flight, the Marsh Harbour flight was its usual hour late arriving at 8:20 p.m. as the skies were breaking loose with thunder and lightning. We dinghied four heavy bags and people to our nearby--thankfully--boat. A squall came through at about 1:30 a.m. sending all hands on deck for a couple of tense hours. The rain was pouring; the wind was blowing; Captain Mike was trying to take up some anchor rode when the anchor broke loose. However, being the good sailor he is, Mike was able to sail the boat slowly until he could get the anchor down again expertly avoiding the nearby boats in the crowded anchorage. My expensive foulies paid off handsomely in the cold chill early morning rainstorm. (This is a little thick--m.)

Unfortunately, the weather remained rather chilly and somewhat windy so none of us got to snorkel as much as we would have liked. However, we found some excellent restaurants and bars and did some fine sailing. Great Guana Cay, the home of Nippers beach bar, was the site of a Sunday pig roast. Then we sailed through the Whale to Green Turtle Cay where we remained several days because of the weather. Black Sound's settlement, New Plymouth, was a small but enjoyable town with friendly people. In White Sound, the Jolly Roger Bistro was our favorite place. Larry and Mike found a huge lobster in one of the snorkeling adventures, but he was not about to be caught. Hope Town, home of the famous lighthouse, was great fun--expecially the good times at Cap'n Jack's and Harbor's Edge restaurants/bars. We met friends of our next visitors, Pete and Amy. Pete runs the Cruisers' Web on Sundays and Mondays, something we enjoy greatly every morning at 8:15 a.m. Larry fished faithfully and caught a beautiful little squirrel fish not once, but three times at Matt Lowe's Cay. Of course, we threw him back. Wild nights of games of Wizard and Phase Ten kept us going. We were sad when the 31st came and still no really good snorkeling. We bid adieu to our good friends till the next time. (Of course, the days have been perfect since!!!) Mike even caught a fish yesterday albeit very small as we sailed to Treasure Cay to hide out during a westerly cold front.

Royal Island, Spanish Wells, Harbor Island—March 3-11

It was a long trip from Governor’s Harbor to Royal Island. We knew there was little wind and we would have to motor-sail, but we thought it was worth it. Fortunately, we left early, about 7:30 a.m. and arrived at a tricky cut, Current Cut, just around slack tide, 1:30 p.m. This was important because we needed to get through this narrow cut before the tide changed as it’s very strong. Mike skillfully maneuvered us through the cut at just the right moment—phew! We arrived at the charming anchorage of Royal Island around 3 p.m. Royal Island has recently been bought by a private company to be developed into a resort. Cruisers are not permitted on land, although they can anchor there. It’s an especially good anchorage because boats are protected from the wind in all directions, an unusual much-sought after situation. While there, four boats from Nova Scotia joined us along with several others. The Canadian group was a lot of fun and invited us for fresh seafood chowder on Saturday night. Jan, on Te Amore, had gone out with 15-year-old Carley, who was sailing with her parents, to harvest lobsters and fish with their spear guns. On their return, several fruitful hours later, we offered our frozen catch from a few days earlier, but Jan wanted only her freshest seafood for the chowder. Instead we brought hors d’oeuvres. With ten of us in the cockpit of their 47 foot ketch, there were a lot of mouths to feed. Jan and her husband Cameron have been sailing for a number of years. They served on the Ship of Hope in Africa, having to pay for the privilege of doing so, working with Africans in need of medical care. Jan and Cam also play large African drums which they played in the anchorage but also will use in Marsh Harbour with a Rake-and-Scrape band there. Rake-and-scrape is a kind of Bahamian music made from raw materials such as a saw, a board, etc. Apparently it’s pretty good. I haven’t heard it yet, but I hope to soon.

After listening to our weather guru, Chris Parker, which we do faithfully every morning at 6:30 a.m.—one of cruel twists of fate not allowing us to sleep in now that we’re retired—we could see that we had a few days at least before the weather would permit a crossing from Eleuthera to the Abacos, so we decided to take the hour trip to Spanish Wells, pick up a mooring and explore. On Monday, we did just that having the good fortune to park next to our “old” friends, Margie and Ron Rogers on Amarige. Spanish Wells was settled by the Eleuthera Adventurers, English Puritans seeking religious freedom. They shipwrecked nearby in 1648 and founded this charming, quaint town. It is a very clean town with brightly painted cottages. It is much larger than the other towns we’ve visited so far with about 1500 residents. Most of the boys leave school at age 14 to become lobster fishermen, earning very good salaries.

We joined our friends, Margie and Ron, Tuesday for a ferry trip to nearby Harbour Island, a posh resort known for its pink sand. What an enjoyable change of pace. Harbour Island is very picturesque with many upscale shops and restaurants—truly a tourist haven. We walked the pink sand on the Atlantic Ocean past several expensive-looking beach homes and lodgings. The one-hour ferry trip gave us views of the sparkling turquoise water from its top deck. After walking the entire island for six hours, we were ready to return to our quiet mooring. Because the weather was still less than encouraging, we stayed a few more days in Spanish Wells. On Friday, we moved back to Royal Island in hopes that the weather would soon change. By Sunday, it looked like the weather window we’d been eyeballing for Tuesday, was dissipating, that maybe we should try for Monday in marginal, but not unacceptable conditions.

Sunday morning brought in an influx of sailboats with similar thoughts. One group mentioned that if we could go ashore, we could have a get-together that evening. However, since that wasn’t viable, everyone ended up on our boat for cocktails and hors d’oeuvres—about 20 people. Everyone in the cruising community seems to really enjoy meeting other cruisers—we’re no exception.

The following morning, knowing that the wind was blowing about 20 knots and the seas would be 6 feet 8 seconds apart, about 6 of us took off at 7 a.m. for the Abacos. We’re glad we did, even though it was a bit of a rough ride. The weather window was closing down with no good future opportunity in sight. Our friends the Dariens are due here Friday, so we are ready to meet them.

Eleuthera

The following morning we sailed on to Arthur’s Town at the end of Cat Island to jump off to Eleuthera the following day. We covered 60 miles on Wednesday anchoring at Rock Sound at 5 p.m. The day started out as a pretty good day, but at 2:30 it became squally with lots of wind and choppy seas. We were glad when we got anchored.

Rock Sound is one of our favorite places. The people were very warm and welcoming. As we walked along the road looking for a restaurant, a group of schoolgirls outside for recess, waved and yelled, "Welcome to the Bahamas! We hope you like it here." Later on, we were invited by a new bunch of cruisers to join them for dinner at Rosie’s, a beach bar on the Atlantic side of the island. Rosie’s son would come by van to pick us all up at 2; then we would comb the beach and wait for dinner to be prepared for us by 5 pm. It worked very well. Even Rosie’s dog, Teddy, who faithfully guarded the front door, welcomed guests. The meal was a typical Bahamian meal: cracked conch, deep-fried grouper and lobster, barbecued chicken, cole slaw, peas and rice, and potato salad. The only missing item was macaroni and cheese, a staple we’ve found wherever we eat. We did not order any of this; Rosie just prepares the meal for a flat price of $15 each and serves it family style. (Incidentally, Bahamian dollars and American dollars are used interchangeably.)

We haven’t talked much about the Bahamian food we’ve had, but one of our favorites is conch salad, a dish similar to ceviche only with conch instead of fish along with very hot little peppers and chopped tomato bathed in the juice of a lime and an orange. Very tasty, but very hard for us to prepare because we have yet to find a conch nor even begin to remove it from the shell, quite a feat we’ve been told.

As we were anxious to work our way to Marsh Harbour, knowing there might be weather delays, we set out the next morning for the next town, Governor’s Harbour. Of course, we took an hour to visit the unusually well-stocked grocery and hardware store in Rock Sound. Unfortunately, the wind was very light, so we motor-sailed arriving around 3 p.m. A walk around the picturesque town with its Victorian houses—the first of that kind we’ve seen—confirmed our feelings about Rock Sound. The next morning we decided to keep moving and headed for Royal Island from which point we could jump over to the Abacos when the weather was right.

North to the Abacos—Cat Island

We left George Town on the Feb. 24^th having enjoyed spending time with a former computer fellow who enriched us greatly not only with his brilliance, but with lots of sailing computer programs and movies and receiving a much-treasured conch shell from another friend for use as a horn. It’s tradition in the Bahama anchorages to blow the conch horn at sunset. Every evening those who have them blow a deep resonant sound that takes a little practice to master. Mike’s getting pretty good by now.

We spent the next two days in a fancy new marina as the weather was predicted to be bad yet we still wanted to get a little north since we need to be in Marsh Harbor—some 160
miles away—by March 16. Although that sounds like a lot of time, with weather being a little iffy, one never knows that one can sail. We enjoyed the company of some new friends from Punta Gorda in Emerald Bay Marina. We also visited the Grand Isles Resort, included in the marina fee, for swimming in a luxurious setting. Although it was too windy to sail, the day at the pool was fabulous.

On Monday, February 26, we left for Cat Island, 30 miles across the Exuma Sound, very deep water. The sailing was wonderful, but we really enjoyed catching a huge, 50”, 30 pound, dorado (mahi-mahi). Mike worked for 1 ¾ hours landing that fish. At the very last moment, the rod and reel broke; Mike was able to pull the fish up into the boat flopping its heart out. But, alas! Not for long. We got 8 good sized fillets and some wonderful sashimi out of that fish. He was a beauty!! A bit of costly catch as well, since we now will have to get a new rod and reel.

We anchored at New Bight, a small town famous for The Hermitage, a miniature replica of a European Franciscan monastery built by hand by Father Jerome, known for the churches damaged by hurricanes he was sent to restore in the Bahamas. It is situated on the highest peak—207’ above sea level—in the Bahamas, Mount Alvernia. Father Jerome used hurricane-proof stonework with thick walls and barrel-vaulted roofs. Leading up to the Hermitage he also constructed the Stations of the Cross. We were very impressed at the hard work that must have gone into this building.

George Town Feb. 9-23,2007

George Town is quite the place for the cruising community. When we arrived, the number of boats in Elizabeth Harbour was 279. ( I’m using the British spellings as the Bahamas are British and spell their words as the British do.) Elizabeth Harbour is a long wide beautiful harbor with several main beaches: Hamburger Beach, Monument Beach, Volleyball Beach and Sand Dollar Beach. You can see the influence of the cruisers with these names. The hub of activity for the cruisers is on Volleyball Beach. Every morning at 8 a.m. on the VHF Radio, one of the cruisers broadcasts announcements for cruisers. Most people monitor this so that they know what’s happening. There are announcements as well from the George Town businesses. Currently the cruisers are preparing for the big cruising regatta to take place February 27 and 28. There will be a pirate contest, volleyball, tennis, golf and bridge tournaments plus assorted activities for the kids. Yes, the kids. There are many of them sailing with their families ranging from ages 5 to 18. The parents are home schooling their children and find that very rewarding—although apparently some of the teenagers do not!

There is a lot of dinghy activity here. Most people park their boats and use their dinghy to get back and forth to town, to others’ boats or to activities on the beaches. What is amazing to me is that most couples stand up in their dinghies for the 1-2 mile ride. Apparently it makes the dinghy more stable and allows more speed.

In the evening we often get together with new friends we’ve met for cocktails and hors d’oeuvres or an occasional dinner on board someone’s boat. Most of the cruisers are professionals—engineers, professors, etc. Some others we’ve met are carpenters, fish industry workers and one was a steeplejack. Most are very friendly.

Feb 8 Lee Stocking Island

February 8, 2007-Lee Stocking Island

We are anchored here today hoping to take a tour of the Caribbean Marine Research Center located here. These waters are protected from fishing in any way as the CMRC does extensive research on marine life. Since we last wrote, Mike and I have anchored at Black Point, Little Farmers Cay, Rudder Cut Cay and Lee Stocking Island.

Black Point—Jan. 30-Feb. 1, 2007

Black Point is one of the largest settlements in the Exumas with 80 residents. After checking out the two restaurants in order to make a dinner reservation, the proprietor, Simon, told us the cook might not be there that night. Why, we asked. He told us she was cooking for the town picnic to be held at 7 p.m.; then added that we should plan to attend: free food and beer. We thought that was a great idea and invited new friends, Karla and Keith from Lioness to join us. We were there at 7, but not a sign of anything going on except a couple of island women who assured us it was going to take place. We waited and waited and waited. At 8:15 about to give up, up rolled a couple of pick-up trucks laden with vats of food, pop, beer. Bahamian music started blaring from well-placed ooutdoor speakers, and the party was on. Sure enough, standing in the buffet line—taking care not to be at the front of the line—we were given plates piled high with turkey, dressing, fried chicken, barbequed chicken, macaroni and cheese and rice and peas (beans). Plus Kalik, the wonderful Bahamian beer. What a feast! There were men and women, teenagers, children—some standing around, some playing basketball, some dancing—but everyone was doing their own thing. No couples or families. The men hung together, and the women hung together. Kids danced up a storm—by themselves. We had an enjoyable evening at this twice annual event.

While in Black Point, we hiked the island across to the Exuma Sound—a body of water on the east side near the Atlantic, much rougher and deeper than the Exuma Banks, a very shallow body of water we’ve been sailing. The land is mostly limestone with mangroves and other low-lying plants, few trees taller than six feet. We came across a couple of rusted out trailers and a few boxes of panels for a house, but whatever the project, it had been abandoned. We also found the beginnings of a marina that had been expected to be built according to our guidebook, but looked like it, too, had been abandoned. It must take a tremendous desire plus the where-with-all to actually make a go of building a project on most of these rugged, remote islands.

Little Farmer’s Cay, Feb. 1-Feb. 4, 2007

We traveled on to Little Farmer’s Cay for the big festival known as the 5 Fs: First Friday in February Farmers Cay Festival, billed as a major event in the islands, a reunion of sorts for Bahamians. There was to be a regatta of the Caribbean sailing sloops plus lots of games, contests, and food. Terry Bain, also known as Ocean Cabin on the VHF radio, organized the cruisers who arrive early as we did to assist in planning events for the cruisers. His free rum punches encouraged those of us who wanted to let others do it to participate. One of the events, the best legs and bums (for men) contest even brought Mike into the running. Although he didn’t win, he provided great entertainment!

Part of the weekend’s activities included a regatta for the Bahamian sloops. The nine Bahamian sloops competed in a regatta Friday & Saturday providing a lot of enjoyment for the cruisers and Bahamians alike. Anchored (unknowingly) at the finish line, we had the catbird seat for the racers! Below are pictures of some of the nine participating boats.

These girls in the picture loved having their pictures taken as they were seeing each other at the reunion, another facet of the 5 Fs.

Sunday, Feb. 4-Friday, Feb. 9

Mike and I picked our way through the very shallow waters from Farmer’s Cay to Rudder Cut Cay where we spent a couple of days because of rain and squalls. Three boats came by our first night—before the squally weather—to invite us to participate in a float at sunset. We all brought drinks and snacks, tied our boats together, chatted and watched the sun set. A lovely evening—with more new and old friends!

We hiked Rudder Cut Cay. We learned that it had been owned by a Florida insurance businessman whose business went belly up. The state of Florida seized the property and the house and grounds fell into disrepair. We also learned that David Copperfield, the magician, has bought or has plans to buy the island. He also owns Musha Cay, a beautiful island just to the west with a posh resort.

On Friday, we took advantage of calm seas in the Exuma Sound to go into George Town. There were about 21 boats that we could see taking advantage of those seas along with us. About three miles outside of George Town, Mike caught our first fish, a dorado, about 37 ½” . It was quite a thrill and is providing some delicious meals.

Interesting People

Interesting People – Staniel Cay

While at the Staniel Cay Yacht club, our friends with the sailing kayak, Laurie and Dave who we met at Shroud Cay, came in. It was nice to chat with them. They run a Chinese medicine business in Nelson, British Columbia. Nelson is just over the border between Vancouver and Calgary. One look at the pictures of their kayak lets you know just how crazy they are. Ah to be young like that!

Staniel Cay 1-24-07

Wednesday, January 24, 2007 – Staniel Cay

It was dead calm with no wind, so we motored to Staniel Cay, about 20 nautical miles, where we expected to have mail awaiting us. Haven’t had mail since Dec. 13!!! Unfortunately, despite the plans that we made to receive our mail there didn’t happen—No surprise. The Staniel Cay Yacht Club has free internet service so we were able to track down our mail sent from St. Brendan’s Isle ( our mail service), but in spite of prior arrangements for its delivery, it took yet another call to get it on its way. Should be here today, Friday, January 26. In the meantime, we are enjoying delicious conch bits and pieces at the yacht club and great Kalik beer, the local Bahamian beer. Also, heard that the late-night talk show host, Conan O’Brien, was staying at the yacht club as well. (A local pilot shared this information pointing him out in the restaurant.)

Weather was extremely windy yesterday. It was dicey getting in the dinghy and going to the yacht club. Balancing a computer wrapped and re-wrapped in plastic bags and a backpack for mail made for an exciting trip in the bouncy waves. When we got there, we were watched a local fisherman extracting and cleaning conch, expertly. Tried to make some calls using our Skype connection (low cost telephone service through the Internet), but the connection was poor, so we didn’t continue.

We walked around the island for a little admiring the brightly colored houses. There was Burke’s Blue Store and Hugh Smith’s Pink Store both with similar groceries like corned beef, soup, cosmetics, paper goods—a limited supply and somewhat pricey. In the pink store, the friendly Bahamian storekeeper wearing a black velvet cloche hat promised to hold a loaf of homemade bread for us on Friday, since the day’s supply was already gone. We’re looking forward to that.

Around 4:30 we started our dinghy ride back to the boat. It was a little scary—high waves, rolly seas—totally fraught with peril. We toyed with moving our boat to a less bouncy anchorage, but decided to stay put. Squalls went through during the night. Lots and lots of strong wind and rain, but we remained safe and sound. Frequent checks on the anchor proved we weren’t going anywhere—a good feeling. Looks like we’ll be staying put for another two days as there’s a nasty weather pattern in these parts.

Warderick Wells 1-22-07

Monday, January 22, 2007 - Warderick Wells Cay

On Monday, January 22, we sailed to Warderick Wells in the Exuma Land and Sea Park. It’s the park headquarters and one must call ahead for moorings. Apparently, a big crowd was expected because there were no moorings to be had. So we anchored near Emerald Rock. On Tuesday, we dinghied to the park headquarters where there is a museum, gift shop, book swap and a mailbox. Had we but known, we might have brought some money and sent a postcard or two. This part of the Exumas is protected. Visitors are not to disturb any of the flora or fauna. No fishing either. There were some interesting hiking trails. Mike and I hiked to Boo Boo Hill, a place Mike had been anxious to see. Visitors leave mementos from their boats such as driftwood carved with the boat name and date. The view was spectacular: Exuma Sound on one side, Exuma Banks on the other. The water was all shades of glistening blue, turquoise, and emerald green, surrounded by pristine white beaches. We hiked over mostly limestone rocks peppered with holes, some small, some huge with trees growing out of them, some filled with water, one with a ladder down into it. The sun was high and hot, but the hike felt good, having not done a lot of walking since Nassau. We ran into the young couples on Alleluia and Mola from Allan’s Cay as well as the kayak sailors from Shroud Cay once again, and met a new couple, Doreen and George form Ohio on Island Star. In the late afternoon, we snorkeled around Emerald Rock, then watched a beautiful sunset from our cockpit

Norman's and Shroud Cay 1-19 and 1-20-07

Friday, January 19,2007 - Norman’s Cay

In the morning, we left for Norman’s Cay after fighting the current to retrieve our two anchors. Norman’s Cay is famous for its one-time drug activity but supposedly now has a great restaurant. However, it turned out not to be open. Later we learned it hasn’t been open for two years. So much for our guidebook!


Saturday, January 20, 2007 - Shroud Cay


Norman’s Cay was an extremely rolly anchorage so we were anxious to move on to Shroud Cay the next morning. Shroud Cay turned out to be a lovely anchorage where we explored a long creek extending from the west coast over to the east coast. It was so shallow, thought, that we couldn’t go all the way. Met two interesting couples as we dinghied around. The first were Dave and Laurie, a young couple on vacation from British Columbia. They were sailing a kayak they had sailed up from the Georgetown area, and they were now camping on the beach. Then we met Gideon and Naomi from Israel sailing an Admiral cat, Morning Star. They joined us for cocktails in the evening. They sail six months, then spend six months with their family in Israel