New Smyrna Beach, Florida -- June 17, 2009

Just a brief update--we are moving up the coast of Florida. Spent several days in Fort Lauderdale, then a week in Lake Worth; then on to Stuart. Yesterday we left Stuart, sailing overnight to New Smyrna Beach, just south of Daytona Beach. We were poised for a possible shuttle launch as we passed Cape Canaveral. However, at 3:30 a.m., the Coast Guard announced that the shuttle launching had been scrubbed. We were so disappointed as we had an excellent vantage point in the Atlantic Ocean just east of the Space Center.

Tomorrow morning we leave for St. Augustine.

USA

Well, we made landfall--USA--on Thursday, June 4, at about 4 p.m. Lake Sylvia, Fort Lauderdale, was the locale. Thrilled to have decided to keep on going once we reached Gun Cay in the Bahamas. We had sailed all night from Frazer's Hog Cay in the Berrys--a beautiful night sail. Made the decision around 6 a.m. and went for it. Bad weather was predicted for Friday so we were glad to tuck in on Thursday afternoon. And in fact there were some bad thunderstorms on Friday that we were glad to have missed. The only bad thing was that we had to motorsail the entire way. Made good time, but we hate to miss a sailing opportunity. Saw several freighters like this as we made our crossing.

Left this morning for Lake Worth. Anchored here about an hour ago. Having lots of trouble with power so we're all set to take our Xantrex in to the dealer tomorrow. OH, well, ....Could have happened in the Bahamas or elsewhere. At least, we're in the vicinity of a dealer.

The palm trees surrounding the homes in Lake Worth were beautiful.

Turks & Caicos, May 13-19, 2009

Having recovered from a touch of the crud in Luperon, by Tuesday Mike was ready to go as the weather window was slim to move on. The winds were a bit more than we expected, 20 to 25 knots, and the seas as well--6-8 feet with a 6 second interval. Very lumpy and right on the beam, which made for a very rolly passage! Got into Provo, Turks and Caicos, at noon on May 13, about 24 hours after leaving Luperon.

Traveling across the Caicos banks, an approximate 10-mile stretch, proved a little hairy as we were hoping for good light to watch for the occasional coral heads in the very shallow water. However, it was a partly sunny day with fast moving clouds which caused us to work very hard in searching our way.

We were very happy to reach Sapodilla Bay where there were about 8 other boats, all of which had sailed from the Bahamas together. They were a very friendly bunch with whom we joined at one of the upscale bars Wednesday afternoon after clearing in with the friendly Provo officials.

Thursday evening, the marina manager and owner from a nearby marina, South Side, held a barbecue for the cruisers in the marina as well as those of us in Sapodilla Bay. They came for us and brought us back as well. While there, we met some several cruisers from the Colorado area: Mark & Karen from s/v Susurra

had lived on Lafayette Street in Washington Park;

Jack & Marianne (a former finance professor at UCD) were from Evergreen; and Casey & Luralea were from Ouray. Small world.

Then Friday we joined ten other boaters in Sapodilla Bay renting a van to run errands, tour the island and eat lunch. It was a very fun day ending with a happy hour at a Turtle Cove bar and live music.

Another first while there was a "girls' day out." With the weather threatening storms and high winds, all of us stayed at anchor much longer then anticipated, so we decided to go to the pool at Neptunes, the only nearby, but very nice, restaurant. It has a lovely pool area and they welcomed us with open arms. It was a fun and different day.

When we returned, the guys had gotten together on s/v Lala to help Henryk cook then eat his famous latkes--which of course the girls enjoyed as well when we returned. Henryk and Mariola along with their two children, Rick and Lala, on s/v Lala are from Poland and British Columbia. Lala, age 10, is loving their sailing adventure and gets along famously with all of the adults.

Rick has buddied up with one of the single-handers and since they are traveling as a group some of the time, assists Marc sailing Opal.

The weather, though getting better, is still very windy with higher, confused seas because of a tropical wave. So we continue to wait for some improvement which is due around Tuesday to continue our journey.

Luperon, Dominican Republic, May 4-11, 2009

Arrived in Luperon at 9 a.m. on Monday, May 4, after a two-day and two-night sail from Boqueron, Puerto Rico.  Our new friends, Bruce and Lin, on the sailing catamaran, Alize, stayed in touch with us every hour on the hour during the nights and often during the daytime although we were a few miles apart.  Since the seas were a bit confused and choppy through the dreaded Mona Passage (between Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic), it was good to hear another boat should any problems develop.  Of course, none did.

We were a little unsure of what to expect in Luperon.  We had heard it was a very dirty area where one dare not get in the water.  However, although the water in the anchorage is not especially clean, the town is delightful.  There is a large ex-pat community here.  We meet many people who sailed this far and stayed.  

The town is full of ramshackle homes, chickens, geese and goats running loose and mopeds zipping recklessly with two or three people or boxed wares.  Mike says it reminds him of Saigon.  We have found the people very warm, friendly and helpful.  

Joined with another boat, Bonnie and Jeff on the sailing vessel Quickstep, in a trip to Santiago, the second largest and oldest city on the island.  It was an hour away.  We had a wonderful taxi driver, Julio, who took us to the grocery store--a Walmart-type place, where we were able to get among other things prescription drugs over the counter for not too much.  Julio took us to a very nice cafeteria for lunch and for $3, we had a full meal--roast pork, rice and peas, salad and fruit.  Delicious.  Did some other shopping including filling our propane tank for $2--far less than the $20 it cost in Curacao.  Julio also filled the propane tank that runs his car! 

Meanwhile, we're enjoying the relaxed, friendly ambience here as we wait for weather to go on to the Turks and Caicos.  Looks like we'll leave Tuesday morning.

La Parguera and Boqueron, Puerto Rico, April 26-May 1, 2009

We left Salinas on Monday, April 20 stopping for the evening at Caja de Muertos, a small island about 4 hours west.  The following morning we left for one of the larger cities on the south coast, Ponce.  The anchorage is not great, so we filled up with fuel and water, anchored for the night and left for La Parguera in the morning.  

La Parguera was cute little town with lots of colorfully painted houses dotting the water.  There are several lovely mangrove islands all along the coast.  In fact, it was challenging finding the route in.  We stayed for several days as we could sometimes get the internet from our boat--always a great find.  Saturday night we ventured down to Club Nautico, the yacht club.  While there, we met some local families who come to La Parguera every weekend.  They were having a dinner and included us.  Most of the men there were doctors, dentists or business men.  The women spoke excellent English and were very gracious.  We thoroughly enjoyed our evening.

Monday, April 27, we motorsailed to Boqueron, Puerto Rico-- about 4 hours from La Parguera.  The wind has just not been cooperating for sails without motors!  Boqueron is a seaside resort with a beautiful beach, lots of cute little restaurants and a great cruisers' bar.  

Met a new friend on Attitude, Larry Higgins, who had rented a car and offered to take us shopping in Mayaguez.  We've had a great time with Larry and enjoyed his hospitality.

So, we're off to the Dominican Republic tomorrow, weather permitting.  Have some pictures I'll hope to add to this soon.

Salinas, April 13-21, 2009

Just an update--We are still here in Salinas enjoying the town with its great empanadillos, deep-fried turnovers stuffed with crab, shrimp, lobster or beef. We've had the good fortune to meet several old friends here such as Wandering Albatross, whom we met in Buenos Aires last summer, Slow Mocean whom we met in Charleston in June of 2007 and Tevai whom we knew from the Caribbean last spring. This seems to be a crossroads for those going south and those going north. 

We rented a car and drove to Ponce about 1/2 hour away. We were there 38 years ago and wow, has it changed. The downtown area has spruced up and is very attractive as a tourist site.

We also drove to San Juan in search of--you guessed it--boat parts. The drive across Puerto Rico was lovely. There are some mountains quite green with several large stands of bamboo. We stopped and had roasted pork at an outdoor restaurant. We were intrigued by the propietor's lopping off some meat with a machete and using a paper plate to catch the grease spills. The pork was delicious.

Our mended sail is now back on the mast so tomorrow we hope to move on.

Puerto Rico April 1-12

Once again weather prevented our leaving Los Roques until April 1. Even then it wasn't perfect, but we thought we could go ahead and head for Puerto Rico. Although it was a rough ride to start with compounded by several boat problems, it did calm down considerably as predicted. We managed to keep going after having to take down our battenless mainsail after only six hours of our 72-hour trip. Our starboard engine clogged up; the newer wind generator collapsed in the middle of the first night in rough seas; then the port engine cable broke. Fortunately, Mike was able to repair the starboard engine and rescue the wind generator. However, we had hoped for a more pleasant sail instead of a motorsail.

We are now in Salinas a lovely, laid back little town where we've had the good fortune to meet up with several sailing friends including Wandering Albatross, Tevai, Child's Play and Ti Punch. We've also discovered carne empanadillas—spicey beef turnovers-at La Barkita, a tiny outdoor cafe near the anchorage.

We also found a wonderful sailmaker who is mending our sails. Hopefully, we will be ready to move on towards the end of next week.

Back to the East, March 16-31

Before leaving Spanish Waters in Curacao, we often saw sights like this—sailing schools for anyone.

The beach bars nearby, though not cheap, had excellent local food like fried mero—grouper, one of our favorites, with morro—beans and rice.

On March 3, we managed to successfully travel to Bonaire where we spent a few days waiting for weather. The trip was not a pleasant one as the seas were lumpy and the wind out of the east made it unsailable.

On March 16, we successfully left Bonair. Arriving in Sotavento, we were thrilled to find beauty and solitude except for the nearby fishermen. They came over at our call and traded a wonderful lobster for a small bottle of rum

and a pack of cigarettes. Such a deal!

Onto Barlovento, the next island in the Aves...The water was beautiful with tall scraggly mangroves harboring lots and lots of birds.

Red-footed boobies, frigates and pelicans swarmed amongst the trees, daring us to get any closer to their sanctuary. They squawked loudly as we snorkeled in to check out the reef close by, and we got the message!

A couple of other boats came in the following day, but still it was a very quiet anchorage. By Saturday the weather seemed reasonably accommodating for our 35 mile push onward to Los Roques. Of course, it turned out to be another lumpy, bumpy motorsail, but we were anxious to move on. Our first night in Elbert Cay was miserable with opposing wave actions rocking the boat every whichway unmercifully. The next day we moved onto Carenero, a lovely spot where we again had the good fortune to find the local lobsterman. He traded us a loster for coffee

which we took back the following day to his wife and daughter.

On to Francisqui , another island in the Roques, to wait for weather and get protection from the 13' swell due over the weekend.

On the Move, March 3-13

Finally, a weather window....and off we go to Bonaire.  It was a rough trip, though, with the wind right on our nose, as they say.  We rocked back and forth for about 8 hours, 5-7 foot waves crashing over the bough pretty regularly.  However, we were glad to finally get out of Spanish Waters, Curacao--not that we didn't like it, we'd just been there much longer than anticipated.

We've enjoyed our week and a half here, reconnecting with friends and enjoying our favorite barbeque at Bobbejan's, the aroma from which wafts across the water to our boat every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Hopefully tomorrow we'll leave for Las Aves; then Los Roques and on to Puerto Rico.  However, it all depends on the weather.  

We're happy to have one more chance to savor the barbequed ribs at Bobbejan's tonight.

A note to our blog followers

Finally, we have added more pictures to our Buenos Aires posts.  Check them out.