Feb 8 Lee Stocking Island

February 8, 2007-Lee Stocking Island

We are anchored here today hoping to take a tour of the Caribbean Marine Research Center located here. These waters are protected from fishing in any way as the CMRC does extensive research on marine life. Since we last wrote, Mike and I have anchored at Black Point, Little Farmers Cay, Rudder Cut Cay and Lee Stocking Island.

Black Point—Jan. 30-Feb. 1, 2007

Black Point is one of the largest settlements in the Exumas with 80 residents. After checking out the two restaurants in order to make a dinner reservation, the proprietor, Simon, told us the cook might not be there that night. Why, we asked. He told us she was cooking for the town picnic to be held at 7 p.m.; then added that we should plan to attend: free food and beer. We thought that was a great idea and invited new friends, Karla and Keith from Lioness to join us. We were there at 7, but not a sign of anything going on except a couple of island women who assured us it was going to take place. We waited and waited and waited. At 8:15 about to give up, up rolled a couple of pick-up trucks laden with vats of food, pop, beer. Bahamian music started blaring from well-placed ooutdoor speakers, and the party was on. Sure enough, standing in the buffet line—taking care not to be at the front of the line—we were given plates piled high with turkey, dressing, fried chicken, barbequed chicken, macaroni and cheese and rice and peas (beans). Plus Kalik, the wonderful Bahamian beer. What a feast! There were men and women, teenagers, children—some standing around, some playing basketball, some dancing—but everyone was doing their own thing. No couples or families. The men hung together, and the women hung together. Kids danced up a storm—by themselves. We had an enjoyable evening at this twice annual event.

While in Black Point, we hiked the island across to the Exuma Sound—a body of water on the east side near the Atlantic, much rougher and deeper than the Exuma Banks, a very shallow body of water we’ve been sailing. The land is mostly limestone with mangroves and other low-lying plants, few trees taller than six feet. We came across a couple of rusted out trailers and a few boxes of panels for a house, but whatever the project, it had been abandoned. We also found the beginnings of a marina that had been expected to be built according to our guidebook, but looked like it, too, had been abandoned. It must take a tremendous desire plus the where-with-all to actually make a go of building a project on most of these rugged, remote islands.

Little Farmer’s Cay, Feb. 1-Feb. 4, 2007

We traveled on to Little Farmer’s Cay for the big festival known as the 5 Fs: First Friday in February Farmers Cay Festival, billed as a major event in the islands, a reunion of sorts for Bahamians. There was to be a regatta of the Caribbean sailing sloops plus lots of games, contests, and food. Terry Bain, also known as Ocean Cabin on the VHF radio, organized the cruisers who arrive early as we did to assist in planning events for the cruisers. His free rum punches encouraged those of us who wanted to let others do it to participate. One of the events, the best legs and bums (for men) contest even brought Mike into the running. Although he didn’t win, he provided great entertainment!

Part of the weekend’s activities included a regatta for the Bahamian sloops. The nine Bahamian sloops competed in a regatta Friday & Saturday providing a lot of enjoyment for the cruisers and Bahamians alike. Anchored (unknowingly) at the finish line, we had the catbird seat for the racers! Below are pictures of some of the nine participating boats.

These girls in the picture loved having their pictures taken as they were seeing each other at the reunion, another facet of the 5 Fs.

Sunday, Feb. 4-Friday, Feb. 9

Mike and I picked our way through the very shallow waters from Farmer’s Cay to Rudder Cut Cay where we spent a couple of days because of rain and squalls. Three boats came by our first night—before the squally weather—to invite us to participate in a float at sunset. We all brought drinks and snacks, tied our boats together, chatted and watched the sun set. A lovely evening—with more new and old friends!

We hiked Rudder Cut Cay. We learned that it had been owned by a Florida insurance businessman whose business went belly up. The state of Florida seized the property and the house and grounds fell into disrepair. We also learned that David Copperfield, the magician, has bought or has plans to buy the island. He also owns Musha Cay, a beautiful island just to the west with a posh resort.

On Friday, we took advantage of calm seas in the Exuma Sound to go into George Town. There were about 21 boats that we could see taking advantage of those seas along with us. About three miles outside of George Town, Mike caught our first fish, a dorado, about 37 ½” . It was quite a thrill and is providing some delicious meals.